My first impressions of New Orleans were from pop culture.
I knew about Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire and Louis Armstrong from watching classic movies with my mom. I watched To Live and Let Die and The Cincinnati Kid with my dad. Both films start with funeral processions in the streets of New Orleans. Instead of only dread and dirge, the parade of mourners broke out with uptempo music and dancing. That definitely made an impression.
I knew who Dr. John was because he was the inspiration for Dr. Teeth from The Muppets.
I grew up in a small suburb of Cleveland, Ohio where everyone was the same color, the same religion. There were ranch houses or split levels or Tudors if you had money.
New Orleans fascinated me.
I loved the architecture, the music, the colors, the francophone history. I felt like if there was even a tiny reason to celebrate, the people of New Orleans celebrated. They knew hardship, but they took advantage of joy. Joy walked the streets.
Then, of course, I learned about the food culture.
My dad was the first to give me a tutorial on New Orleans food. He taught me the words jambalaya, étoufée, and gumbo. He also taught me the differences between the three.
Jambalaya is a stew of smoked meat, like andouille, shellfish, and is cooked with rice. Gumbo is a stew of similar ingredients but with the addition of okra and filé powder. It’s served over rice. Étoufée is a stew that always includes shellfish, but not necessarily meat, and is also served over rice.
Dad schooled me on po’boy sandwiches, crawfish, and his favorite, shrimp and grits.
G had visited New Orleans before, but he took me there for the first time in 2009. Our dear friends, Mark and Andrea, had just moved from Michigan. They lived Uptown, a perfect place to catch a streetcar, walk the Garden District, and shop on Magazine Street.
And, of course, the food!
I was so inspired by the trip and charmed by the city just like I thought I’d be. G and I returned in 2016 for an anniversary getaway.
New Orleans influenced my cooking at home. G always requests a Cajun pasta for his birthday. When I make a gumbo or a red beans and rice dish, I chop the Louisiana equivalent of mirepoix, the trinity of onions, bell peppers, and celery.
You might be thinking, wait, she hasn’t mentioned Café du Monde. Chicory coffee. Beignets.
I saved the best for last!
Beignets at home for the win. I used a Bobby Flay recipe that made a ton but G didn’t seem to mind.
While writing this week’s issue, I found this (perfect) quote from Tennessee Williams:
“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.”
I care about you. Please don’t forget to eat your greens.
Lol love the quote! I’ve been to New Orleans but it was a down season and no hustle and bustle the city was quiet and I remember thinking…”this doesn’t feel right”. We went to a Landry’s restaurant…didn’t appreciate it since it was a chain. Adored the architecture of the city buildings though! Need to go back and really experience it.
I've never been to New Orleans, but it's somewhere I've always wanted to go. It seems so alive and vibrant. And your Beignets look delicious!